Making ricotta cheese, sort of

wp-image-1845514739jpg.jpeg

Living in Mexico can be eye-opening — provided you keep your eyes and mind open. I was reminded of this when I  first made requesón cheese, the name for ricotta in Mexico. It’s sold at all the cremerias here, but it’s so easy to make, plus home-made ricotta is much smoother and cheaper than store-bought.

Rural living in Mexico has a lot of pluses, one being that we can buy raw milk, sometimes so fresh it is delivered warm from the cow. As much as I would like to drink raw milk, I always pasteurize it first. It still remains unhomogenized, with a thick layer of yellow cream on the top.

wp-image-924604748jpg.jpeg

The eye-opening part of making ricotta occurred when Ruby, our house cleaner, tasted my ricotta and politely declared it “requesón lite”. What? I had followed the recipe from America’s Test Kitchen to the T. She patiently explained that requesón is made from suaro, the whey collected from cheese making, not from whole milk.

This explains why American ricotta recipes start with whole milk. After all, how many of us have a small herd of dairy cattle, make vats of cheese every day, and then have 10 gallons of whey to use for making ricotta?  No, I didn’t think so.

Our favorite way to eat ricotta is spread on toasted seed bread, a so called “Life Changing Bread” from My New Roots.

wp-image-974243913jpg.jpeg

Unless you have your own herd of milk cows, here is how to make ricotta, even though Ruby probably thinks I’m cheating.


Ricotta/ Requesón

makes about 350 grams or 12 ounces

  • 2 quarts whole milk
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons/30 ml. white vinegar
  • 1/6 cup/ 40 ml. lemon juice
  1. In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat milk and salt over medium-high heat, stirring frequently to prevent scorching.
  2. When milk reaches 165 degrees F./ 74 C., remove milk immediately from heat and add vinegar and lemon juice, stirring gently. Extra cooking will result in curds too firm for ricotta.
  3. As soon as curds form and the whey becomes mostly clear and yellow, pour into the cheesecloth-lined colander. It will take between 5 seconds and 10 minutes for the curds to form. If curds do not form, gently stir in more vinegar, one tablespoon at a time.
  4. Allow to drain for only a few minutes, until you have a spreadable consistency. Upend the cheesecloth into a bowl and stir the ricotta with a fork, breaking up the curds until it is smooth. If you would like it more moist, stir in a few tablespoons of reserved whey. Refrigerate.

Notes

~ Have everything ready before the milk heats — vinegar and lemon juice measured, colander lined with cheesecloth and set over a large bowl.

~ If using commercial organic milk, don’t use milk labeled UHT (Ultra High Temperature). The curds will not form as readily or as well. Hopefully, non-UHT organic milk is available.

~ Don’t use Meyer Lemons, as they are not acidic enough. Even regular lemons can vary in their acidity, requiring more lemon juice. All vinegar, instead of any lemon juice, supposedly can make the milk curd sufficiently, but I haven’t tried it.

~ Don’t throw out the whey! It’s great in smoothies, soups (so I read), and for bread making. My chickens like it, too.

~ Make an easy and impressive Raspberry-Ricotta Cake with this recipe from Epicurious.

© 2009-2016 COOKING IN MEXICO ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Día de la Independencia at El Molcajete

20160916_151310.jpg

El Molcajete provided the perfect setting for our celebration of Independence Day in Mexico on September 16. Set on a lake shore. Mountains in the background. Menus in hand. This was the way to say, “Viva México!” An afternoon of eating, drinking, laughing and chatting. What better way to celebrate our adopted homeland.

A molcajete is the carved, black basalt bowl with a grinding tool, the mortar and pestle of Mexico, the first food processor in the Americas. With a molcajete, endless varieties of salsa are created, chocolate and coffee beans are ground, seeds and spices are blended into a smooth paste for mole, the rich sauce that dresses chicken, turkey, and pork.

But I digress. El Molcajete, our local restaurant, boasts the world’s largest molcajete as its namesake. A for real, carved basalt molcajete that weighs close to 8,000 lbs. (3.5 toneladas) and is big enough to make 350 quarts of salsa, is registered with Guinness World Records.

20160916_145107

An order of Chingaderas started us off while we enjoyed the vista and decided what to order next. A chingadera loosely means “whatever”. The menu description, “totopos sobre una cama de frijoles banandos con carne en su jugo y queso fundido“, included a lot of “whatevers”: fried tortilla chips on a bed of seasoned refried beans with meat in its broth and melted cheese. Dip in a tortilla chip and scoop up a bit of everything. Yummy.

20160916_150232

After commenting on how high the lake is now after a couple of rainy months, and gazing at the distant mountain whose name translates to “good for nothing”, I remembered a conversation with a neighbor a few months before.

Me (en español): Why is it called Good for Nothing?

Beto: Because you can’t do anything with it, not even climb it.

Me (to myself): A mountain has to be good for something?

20160916_145207

Wanting to make the afternoon at El Molcajete last as long as possible, we slowly studied the menu and discussed all the options, reminiscing about past meals we had enjoyed here.

20160916_162811.jpg

We had already tried the signature dish, Molcajete, a steaming, hot molcajete of seafood, chicken or beef, or a combination, with avocado, grilled onion, green chile and a nopal cactus pad, topped with local fresh cheese, and served with corn tortillas.

20160916_153506.jpg

We settled on Arrechera. Rather, Russ did. I had already decided I was too full after the Chingaderas to eat another bite. When his plate arrived, I took one look and my appetite returned. Sweetheart that he is, he shared it with me. Marinated, grilled flank steak, grilled onion, chile and nopal cactus pad, refried beans, and guacamole con mas totopos.  The plate was also carved from basalt and very, very hot.

20160916_161507.jpg

Marco, our waiter, and a local high school student, couldn’t have been cuter in his revolution-inspired outfit. He waited attentively on us, checking to see if we needed more of anything, refilling my glass with ice, bringing Russ another cerveza. The place was packed, and he managed to keep up with all his tables.

20160916_161331.jpg

To get to El Molcajete, go south out of Mascota toward the lake, Presa Corrinches. Continue through the small settlement of La Providencia to the lake shore where you will find El Molcajete, the first restaurant on the left.  Open seven days a week from 11 am until 9 pm. I hope Marco is your waiter.

For readers who don’t live close and are wondering where in the world this is,  Mascota is a county seat, a “municipio” in the state of Jalisco, on the west coast of Mexico, and is about two hours by car east of Puerto Vallarta. Don’t be confused by the sign in front that says Restaurant “La Terraza”. This was the former name before the record holding molcajete was acquired, and a new sign is not yet in evidence. Such is Mexico. Viva México!

20150302_104323.jpg

 

 

Salsa revisited

image

Since we moved to the mountains of Jalisco, “the most Mexican of Mexican states”, I have no excuse for not getting salsa on the table pronto. Salsa may be the accompaniment to almost everything served on a Mexican mesa. And isn’t bottled salsa more popular than catsup in the U.S. now?

Cook’s Illustrated, that wonderful food magazine, did a review of bottled salsas a number of years ago and concluded that, really, while some commercial salsas are acceptable, nothing compares with home made salsa. And almost nothing is easier.

If you aren’t making it regularly, we’re revisiting salsa to break down any barriers that make you reach for the bottle on the grocery shelf instead of making it yourself.

image

To begin with, you don’t need a recipe, scales or measuring cups. A grill helps, but isn’t necessary. A blender makes quick work of the job, but a sharp knife will also do nicely. If you insist on a recipe, go back to previous salsas from Cooking in Mexico — Salsa Ranchera, and Salsa Verde, to get some idea of the taste you are after and the  quantities of each ingredient.

image

A few weeks ago, I had some tomatoes that had been around long enough to become over-ripe.  Deep red, with a few wrinkles, a little soft. They made the best salsa I’ve had in a long time, with an intense tomato color and flavor. Lesson learned: use over-ripe tomatoes, not those that that come home insipid, pale, and firm.

Tomatoes have the wonderful ability to continue ripening the longer they sit around, provided they are not refrigerated. Now I let tomatoes sit on the counter as many days as it takes for them to be almost too ripe, but just right for salsa.

Yesterday we stopped at a little tienda in Mascota for tomatoes and cilantro to go with the grilled chicken and tortillas we had just bought. (Alejandro and Ana sell the best charcoal grilled chicken every Sunday out of their house.) The freshness of these tomatoes was questionable, but I had such a hankering for tomatoes, I didn’t care. This morning the remainder continued to ripen, getting softer by the minute. Salsa time.

image

Here’s a little primer on tomato salsa procedure. Pick your method: 

#1. Grill the veggies (tomatoes, onion, chile and garlic) until soft and starting to blacken, then process in a blender.

#2. Char the veggies in a skillet on the stove, process in a blender.

#3. Finely chop raw veggies, and serve salsa uncooked.

#4. Process in a blender until slightly chunky, then sautée in a skillet with a little oil.

Using the same ingredients, each will produce a slightly different salsa, each method is used in Mexico, and each is delicious. Regardless of your choice, don’t skimp on salt.

image

For a no-recipe salsa (or sort of recipe, I guess, because I’m giving you approximate amounts), use 3-4 large roma tomatoes, or more if they are smaller, half an onion, 1-3 serrano or jalapeño chiles, and several cloves of garlic.  I prefer method #1 above, because I like the blackened bits grilling produces. Plus, I have a great view from the grill.

image

If you aren’t up to grilling,  just chop everything finely for a fresh salsa. Or throw in the blender and process until still a little chunky, and then sautée in a very hot skillet with enough neutral oil to cover the bottom of the pan. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring. With any of the four methods, use a little bit more salt than you think you should. That’s it.

Be sure to have a big bag of corn tostadas on hand for dipping, or serve salsa in a dish along side tacos, Huevos a la Méxicana, grilled meat, you name it.

Mario, our yard guy, jack of all trades, and friend, sat down to dinner with us recently. His eyes lit up when I put a bowl of salsa in front of him. He proceeded to smear salsa on hot corn tortillas, fold and eat them in quick order, calling them “Tacos Catalina”, Catalina being the name my Mexican amigos use for me. It was a seal of approval from him. I knew my salsa was bueno.

image

Notes:

Seed chiles for less heat. Use one chile to start with. It may be so hot that you won’t need to use more.

For grilling, pre-heat the grill, then wipe with an oiled paper towel, holding it with tongs.

As the vegetables start to char, remove from the heat. The chiles will blacken first, the onion last. Don’t discard the blackened skin (except for the garlic). It adds a charred flavor that no store-bought salsa can duplicate.

If you choose grilling, don’t separate the cloves of garlic. Leave them together in their husks to prevent their falling through the grill. When blackened and soft, squeeze out the pulp and discard the skin.

For fresh, uncooked salsa, add some chopped cilantro.

image
The Rio Mascota near our house

Returning again, this time with White Bean, Celery, Poblano Soup

20160309_143822

How many times will my patient readers allow me to make a comeback? Your reception of this recipe will be my answer to comeback number two.

I have not, as you might be thinking, been lolling on a Mexican beach instead of tending my blog. Since you last heard from me, we bought a new home and moved.

Last November we packed up our belongings in a home we had lived in for sixteen years (one can sure accumulate a lot of material goods in one small house in sixteen years!) and moved in early December to a home in the mountains in the state of Jalisco. While only a three-hour journey by road, it is a world away, exchanging sand and palm trees for mountain vistas with pine and oak. From sea level on the Bay of Banderas to 4,600 feet elevation in the Sierra Madre Mountains, with a lake view thrown in for good measure.

20160305_142533

The excessive and increasing summer heat on the coast, plus the growing bustle of our once quiet little beach town, were the motivation to find a more peaceful setting. The environs of Mascota, long a favorite for weekend getaways, is our new locale, and we love it.

Shortly after our move, my sweet father passed on at the age of 95, and I went back to Santa Fe, New Mexico, to spend several weeks with my mother and help her adjust to life without my dad.

20140724_114104

 

After returning, unpacking, sorting, sewing new curtains, and taking time to honor my father with loving memories, it is finally time to return to writing about what’s happening in my cocina.

20160309_133452

An unseasonal cold front moved in last night — maybe a last hurrah from El Niño — bringing rain and chilly winds. They say be careful what you wish for, and I had wished for soup weather many times during our sticky years on the coast. Thank goodness I still have a wool shirt and a down vest from our New Mexico life. I’m wearing both right now, something I never thought would happen in Mexico.

20160309_151426

Not exactly a traditional Mexican recipe, but a comforting bowl from my Mexican kitchen, here is a white bean and celery soup inspired by a large bag of organic, but stringy, celery that has been in the fridge long enough to apply for residente permanente. The tough celery strings dissolved in the simmering pot, leaving behind a smooth and flavorful soup that is one to make again. Roasted poblano chile gives this soup its Mexican credentials.

20160309_134058

Poblano chile is a great addition to many dishes, but I find myself sometimes skipping the poblanos because I don’t want to stop in the middle of preparations to roast chiles. Lately I have started roasting a dozen chiles at a time on the gas grill outside and popping them into the freezer when cool, a few to a freezer bag. It doesn’t take more than a few minutes to peel the skins, which slip off easily after thawing, scrape out the seeds, and chop or slice for the preparation in progress.

20160309_154239

Croutons are made by toasting slices of sturdy, homemade whole wheat bread, which are then drizzled with olive oil and cubed. The reflection in the toaster gives this loaf away as made in a bread machine. See the telltale hole left by the kneading blade? The bread machine is a savior when good whole wheat bread can’t be had for love or money in any of the local stores.

20160309_132419

“Chicken” flavored vegetarian boullion cubes, brought home from my summer trip to the U.S., round out the flavor. The custom officials at the Puerto Vallarta airport must wonder at, and be amused by, the culinary contents of my suitcase.

20160309_132158

White Bean and Celery Soup

makes 3 servings

  • 1/2 large onion, chopped
  • 8 stalks celery, thinly slice
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling on finished soup
  • 2 cups water and 1 chicken or vegetarian boullion cube
    OR 2 cups vegetarian or chicken broth
  • 2 cups cooked white beans
  • 1 large poblano chile, roasted, peeled, seeded and chopped
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Whole wheat croutons
  • Parmesan cheese, grated
  1. In a heavy bottomed pot, sautée onion and celery in olive oil over medium heat until onion is translucent, about 6 minutes, stirring occasionally.
  2.  Add garlic and cook 30 seconds more, stirring.
  3. Add water and boullion cube (or broth) and beans. Bring to a simmer and cook 20 minutes.
  4. Mash some of the beans with a fork to thicken the soup slightly. Stir in chopped poblano chile. Salt and pepper to taste.
  5. Ladle into bowls and garnish with croutons, grated parmesan cheese, and drizzle with olive oil.

20160309_132723

I love readers’ comments, and I always reply, but I should let it be known that our new home comes with one drawback — no Internet connection. This means I will go into our nearest town, Mascota, to publish this recipe, and will not be able to reply to comments until my next town visit. Life is more peaceful — and productive — without hours wasted on Facebook, but we hope to be connected later this year. Or so we are told in the land of mañana. If you are inclined leave a comment, you will hear back from me eventually. Maybe today, maybe … mañana.

20151214_082120

Little Hot Grill

20151114_091415

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, our little town, has a sweet, little restaurant, The Little Hot Grill. We live in an area very popular with foreign tourists, winter visitors, and expat residents. Fancy restaurants cater to this clientele, with fancy prices to match. The Little Hot Grill features very good, very real Mexican cooking, with prices affordable for the Mexican residents, as well as for us expats who watch our budget.

Eye-popping orange and blue tiles in the kitchen and the prettiest doors anywhere in La Cruz set The Little Hot Grill apart from other eateries. Marisol, the proprietress and cook, has a sweet disposition and smile to match her welcoming restaurant.

20151113_141312

The first time I ate here, I had Enchiladas Suizas. They were so good, it was hard to order anything else for the next several visits. Cheesey, creamy, filled with tender chicken. I was stuck on them.

20151114_092522

Some of our friends are of the opinion that Marisol’s Chiles Rellenos eclipse her Enchiladas Suizas, though that’s a hard call. Relleno coatings this tender, eggy, and delicate are not always found in other restaurants attempting the same dish.

20151113_142605

When we met friends for lunch recently, all five of us ordered Chile Relleno, and I found myself in the position of having to order Enchiladas Suizas para llevar (to go) just to have a photo of lunch beside Rellenos. Dinner was taken care of very well that day, much to Russ’es delight.

20151107_125129

Friday is the day for Chiles Rellenos, but every day has different specials, with no set agenda. You just have to show up to see what the day’s special is. It might be Pozole with Pork, Birria, Mole Rojo, Mole Verde, or Caldo Tlalpeño pictured below.

20151113_152326

Marisol tells me that her customers include visitors from all over the world — Japan, Germany, Switzerland, and even guests from the Four Seasons Hotel in our area. That last tidbit is worth more than any gushing Trip Advisor review, of which she has many.

20151114_091305

Marisol’s pico de gallo — fresh salsa, which literally translates to beak of the rooster — is special for its cucumber chunks, which give a pleasing crunch and freshness, and not usually found in pico de gallo.

20151107_125228

Her salsa roja is wonderful, but the tortillas are special. They are made from nixtamal, dried corn treated with lime to soften the outer hull and then ground. Marisol uses a blend of nixtamal and masa dough for tender tortillas, made to order with an industrial-looking tortilla press.

20151103_124452

In our conversation, I learned something new about our town. The local tortillaría sells nixtamal at seven each morning to cooks who want to make tortillas with a better corn flavor. I had assumed that only tortillas made from packaged Maseca, a dry, coarse corn flour, were available in La Cruz. I guess this ignorance reveals where I am at seven every morning, and where I am not.

20151103_124341

If you eat at The Little Hot Grill, treat yourself to a freshly squeezed juice — orange, carrot or beet. I had a cool blend of beet and carrot, bright and refreshing. Also offered were agua de guayaba (sweetened guava water) and iced jamaica (hibiscus tea). Different fruit aguas are offered on other days.

20151113_142459

Eggs any style are served for breakfast, which includes Huevos Rancheros and Huevos a la Mexicana. A variety of tortas — sandwiches made on bolillos, Mexico’s crusty rolls — are on the menu, including the popular Torta Cubana.

The Little Hot Grill is open six days a week, closed on Sundays, from 8 am to 5 pm. Starting in December, hours will be 8 am to 9 pm, seven days a week. The Little Hot Grill is in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle on the corner of Calle Camaron and Calle Atun, the road that leads down to the fish market at the marina. Look for the pretty doors with the lilies.

20151114_093703

~ This is one of the few times I have used so many photos in one article. Let me know if this takes an inordinate amount of time to download, and I will delete some. There were so many photos that gave a good sense of the place and food, that it was hard not to use them.

20151115_085102