The mystique of making café de olla, Mexican coffee

There is really no mystique to making coffee in Mexico. If you can boil water and have some cinnamon sticks, you can make coffee the way they still make it down on the rancho, the way it is still made in many small restaurantes and mercados (markets).

Diana Kennedy’s excellent book, The Cuisines of Mexico, provided my first instructions for making café de olla many years ago. And I probably learned from one of her books that an olla (pronounced OH-yah) is a round, earthenware pot, bulbous at the bottom, used for making coffee, hot chocolate, beans, soups, and much more. Mexican cooks swear that earthenware pots impart a better flavor.

Coffee has been a hot drink in Mexico since its arrival from Africa, via the Middle East and Europe in the late 18th. century, when it was brought from Cuba and the Dominican Republic by the Spanish. By the 1790s, coffee was being cultivated in the Gulf state of Vera Cruz. It wasn’t until after the Mexican Revolution that Mexican farmers saw it as a viable commercial crop.

Throughout the coffee growing states of Mexico, there are many cooperatives supporting farmers in the growing and marketing of coffee. If you are traveling through a coffee growing region, seek out a coopertivo to buy locally grown coffee, often organic and shade-grown. Today, Mexico is one of the largest exporters of organic coffee. Mexico grows the superior tasting Arabica bean, which makes a very good cup of coffee.

Café de Olla

  • 3 cups (3/4 l.) boiling water
  • 6 tablespoons (90 ml.) coarsely ground coffee
  • 2″ (5 cm.) cinnamon stick
  • piloncillo for sweetening (optional)

Add ground coffee and cinnamon stick to boiling water and allow to reach a boil again. Remove from heat, slowly stir to settle the grounds, and return to heat to bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and strain into mugs.

In Mexico, coffee is served very sweet in small pottery cups. The traditional sugar for coffee is piloncillo, cones of dark, unrefined sugar with a slight molasses flavor.

I don’t have a metate, a rectangle of volcanic rock upon which grains are ground with a mano, but I wanted to experience the making of coffee in a slightly more traditional way, so I ground the beans using my mortar and pestle. I’m not recommending you do this. A high-quality burr grinder will do the job just fine.

Full disclosure: I have to admit that our usual morning routine is to turn on the espresso machine. This morning, when I handed Russ, my chief taster and food critic, a cup of café de olla, he immediately detected the cinnamon aroma and declined his usual cream, wanting instead to enjoy the full body and cinnamon flavor unmasked.

I’m sorry to say that Puerto Vallarta now has a Starbucks, serving all the usual lattes and cappuccinos. I hope they also serve Café de Olla with cinnamon, and buy from Mexican coffee growers, but I have never been there to find out.

Notes:

When shopping for coffee beans, look for organic. Many coffee growing countries do not have stringent laws regarding pesticide use. Some of the pesticides used in coffee growing include Endosulfan, which takes years to break down in the environment and is toxic to birds, mammals and fish; Chlorpyrifos (brand name Dursban) linked to birth defects and to low birth rate of birds; and Methyl parathion, banned in Indonesia, restricted in Columbia, but used in some Central American countries. It is very toxic to birds and marine life. I could list more, but it is too dreary to contemplate what so many of us are exposed to, and what we are subjecting the field workers and the environment to, by buying non-organic coffee.

Another designation to look for is “shade-grown”. Coffee plants naturally grow in shade under taller trees. Shade-grown coffee takes longer to mature, but is less prone to competition from weeds and pathogenic infection. Farmers have found that they can increase production by growing coffee in full sun-light. The loss of the upper-growth of trees has decreased bird habitat and biodiversity. Yes, organic and shade-grown coffee costs more, but we can pay now or pay later.

The word “Mascota” on the earthenware mugs in the top photo is the name of a small town in the mountains near us. If you take a trip in that direction, take the San Sebastian turn-off to buy organic coffee grown on the hillsides outside of town. You will be treated to little mugs of hot coffee and be able to see a hillside of coffee plants behind the hacienda.

More Reading:

Home Roasting Coffee in a Popcorn Popper

Smithsonian Report on Bird Friendly Shade-Grown Coffee

Shade Grown Coffee Farms Support Native Bees


Share

Protected by Copyscape Duplicate Content Check

23 thoughts on “The mystique of making café de olla, Mexican coffee

  1. Thanks Kathleen – great recipe , and a fine and sobering comment on the importance of buying organic – your observation on paying now or paying later is succinct and one I might have to share with others.

    Best
    Patsy

    1. It sounds like a cliché, but it’s true. Organic foods almost always cost more, but the damage done by pesticides and herbicides used for most food production takes its toll. The loss of bees is a prime example. It is unconsciable to buy non-organic foods if organic is available and of one can afford the higher price. I salute Costco for providing so many organic choices.

  2. Pingback: Vegan by accident « The tale of quick brown fox

  3. Pingback: Home roasting coffee in a popcorn popper « Cooking in Mexico

  4. Great post!
    We actually hosted some nice folks from Mascota a few months ago. Sounds like a lovely town.

    Where do you buy your organic coffee? Have you found a shade grown source in Mexico?

    saludos from Michoacán,
    Marie

    1. We buy our coffee from a cooperative near Compostela, Nayarit, that exports to the US. They are not retailers, but if we buy 50 kilos of green beans (unroasted) at a time, they give us a wholesale price. Green beans last indefinitely. Their beans are organic, but I don’t know if they are shade-grown. We are about to run out of coffee in a few months, so I am planning on learning more about their beans on our next trip to buy more.

      Thanks for visiting!

  5. cranefixer

    Ok i will try this tomorrow am but i was thrown off a bit by the piloncillo did not recognize the term.

    Not sure about grinding my own will have to see if Dewalt has a Cordless Stone Coffee Grinder :P

    Good old google informed me that it is a less refined Brown Sugar mmmm the closer it gets to the roots the better it is :)

    I do not drink sweet coffee but the cinnamon is one of my favs to put in almost anything.

    As usually Blog was informative fun and inspiring to go and play in the KITCHEN !!!!!

    1. If you can’t find piloncillo in a Mexican grocery store, brown sugar will make a good substitute. Yes, it is an unrefined sugar that ususally comes in a cone shape. It has hints of molasses. I don’t drink sweet coffee, either, and this still tastes delicious with just cinnamon as an extra flavor. Also, you don’t have to grind your own coffee. A good quality ground coffee will make a great pot of cafe de olla.

  6. darlene

    Hi Kathleen,
    My husband would love this coffee. I drink tea myself, but on occasion will have a cup of Joe.
    The cinnamon will entice me to try your Cafe de Olla. I especially liked your little mug with
    the bird on it.

  7. The only thing you missed in the cafe de olla is the piloncillo (sweetener).
    Do you live in Puerto Vallarta?
    I used to live there , but now I came back to Mexico City which is where I am from.

    Saludos

    1. You are right — I didn’t list it in the ingredients, because I think that sugar is optional in coffee. But cafe de olla, Mexican coffee, is always sweetened. I will add it to the ingredients — thank you.

      I live in a small town near Puerto Vallarta. As a Mexico City resident, you must have so many more food opportunities and experiences.

      1. Yes in Mexico City you have all the foods, but I don’t have those beautiful beaches from the Pacific Coast of Mexico;I really miss that.
        Where did you live San Sebastian , Mascota or where?????
        I used to have a Restaurant in Puerto Vallarta, but I came back to Mexico like 2 years ago…and I really miss that weather (except the September and October season)

        Saludos

  8. linda

    I love the cups that say ‘Mascota’. I have a pottery dish shaped like a small pie pan that says ‘Mascota’ and it is one of my favorite serving dishes to use. Will you tell your readers on the North side of the border how to make the drink that uses cornmeal?

    1. The drink to which you refer is atole, made with masa, the same dough used for making tortillas. Yes, this is a good suggestion. I will plan on writing about it and include a recipe, though I’ll wait until it is cooler here in Mexico.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s